Home › Big Wave Surfing

Living in a surf town

Surf towns run on the ocean's timetable. Days start with a swell check, plans change with the wind, and the whole community knows when a big swell is coming.

The daily rhythm

Dawn patrol sessions before work, a second look at lunchtime, sunset if the wind drops. Businesses — from cafés to construction crews — quietly adapt to the fact that half the staff may arrive late on a perfect morning.

Lineup etiquette

• the surfer closest to the peak has priority;
• don't drop in on someone already riding;
• paddle wide, not through the line of waves;
• respect locals and learn the break before charging.

Seasonal life

Summer brings visitors, surf schools and full parking lots; winter brings storms, big swell and a quieter town. Many residents work several seasonal jobs.