The world's legendary big wave breaks
Giant waves are not random. They form where deep-ocean swell meets a sudden change in the seabed that focuses and lifts its energy.
Four famous breaks
| Break | Where | Why it's big |
|---|---|---|
| Mavericks | Half Moon Bay, California | a rocky reef ramp; cold water, strong currents |
| Peʻahi (Jaws) | north shore of Maui, Hawaii | deep water close to a reef that stands swell up fast |
| Nazaré | central Portugal | a submarine canyon that funnels Atlantic swell |
| Waimea Bay | north shore of Oahu, Hawaii | the historic birthplace of paddle big wave surfing |
Seasons
In the Northern Hemisphere the big wave season runs roughly from November to March, when winter storms in the North Pacific and North Atlantic send long-period swell. Surfers watch forecast models and fly in at short notice.